Knit for Brains

I am making for a relative – to match the scarf I made for xmas last year – has faux 1+1 cables.

Faux cables like in this hat are very easy, don’t require a cable needle or finger contortions, and best of all they don’t tighten your knitting significantly like real cables, so they are great for hats and socks where fit is important and you want a bit of fancy stitching. Real cables would make your hat a lot smaller due to the pulling it you get with real cable stitches.

Materials and tools:
Yarn: less than one skein Lion Brand Woolease Thick and Quick (106 yd/97 m), or equivalent size 6 yarn.
10.5 circular needles, 24 -36 inch length or whatever works for you.
Stitch markers for the columns where you want your cables IF you are not going to do them in all right side knit columns, and one of a different color to mark the start of a row.

I did this one smaller (48) to test the smaller size. It still fits my large, 7 and 7/8 size head a bit tight, and the wales are opened up fully. I needed the 56.

Cast on 48 for a child (52, 56 for larger) and join to knit in the round without twisting the cast-on. I used long tail cast-on.
Knit p2k2 ribbing for 1.5 to two inches. I did the one in the picture for 3 inches, but realized it’s not necessary, so you can do less and it looks better. And I find p2k2 ribbing pulls in better than p1k1 ribbing.

For the next 6-7.5 inches knit in line with the p2k2 rib BUT instead of the k2 part knit a faux cable: so that’s *p2, K2tog, leave the two stitches on the left needle and knit again into the one nearest the tip of the needle, then slide the two loops off the left needle.* – Repeat around until done with that row..

Work one row with faux cables in all the knit columns on the right side, then work three rows in reg p2k2 ribbing, then repeat until your hat is about 8 inches deep. For men with larger skulls make the hat 9 inches deep. This will give you a hat that will cover your ears or your bulky hair or maybe both.

Decreases: I designed this decrease so the two columns of knit stitches on the outside bend with the decrease rather than being cut off.

Move beginning marker so it is between two nearest knit stitches on the outer/right side of the hat. Using markers of a different color, insert one every 8 stitches. These should likewise be between two knit stitches on the outside of the hat.
Follow current pattern – knit knits and purl purls – until you get to the last two loops before a marker and for those two, knit two together.

Continue until you have reduced to about 6 or 7 loops on the needles – 6 for the smaller hat. It doesn’t really matter at that size.

Remove markers.

Break yarn with about 1.5 ft tail, thread yarn through loops using a crochet hook, remove from circular needle, draw tight to close the hole, tie firmly and weave in ends.

Add a tassel or pompom if you like. For colder climates be sure to make the hat deep enough to cover the ears, or add ear flaps.

Ear Flaps?
If you can, test the hat on the person who will be wearing it for fit. If you think you need ear flaps, estimate how long they should be, and use stitch markers to position mark where to begin and end them on the edge of the hat.

Remove hat from the wearer before knitting on the ear flaps.

Pick up and knit 10 stitches along the edge – or however many you think you need to fit the intended hat owner. Knit and purl the knits and purls respectively until 3 inches long. Begin decreases with k2tog at the start and end of each row. When down to on stitch on needle, pull yarn through and use a crochet hook to chain a tie if you want one. Make it about a foot long, and add a tassel to the end.

Another variant of this hat I am making for a relative – to match the scarf I made for xmas last year – has faux 1+1 cables.  Faux cables like in this hat are very easy, don’t require a cable needle or finger contortions, and best of all they don’t tighten your knitting significantly like real cables, so the are great for hats and socks where fit is important and you want a bit of fancy stitching. Real cables would make your hat a lot smaller due to the pulling it you get with real cable stitches.  I did this one smaller to test the smaller size. It still fits my large head comfortably, but the wales are opened up fully. It’s not tight on my head.  Cast on 48 (56) and join to knit in the round without twisting the cast-on. Knit p2k2 ribbing for two inches. I find p2k2 ribbing pulls in better than p1k1 ribbing.  For the next 6-7 inches knit in line with the p2k2 rib BUT instead of the k2 part knit a faux cable: K2tog, leave the two stitches on the left needle and knit again into the one nearest the tip of the needle, then slide the two loops off the left needle.  Work one row with faux cables in all the knit columns, then work three rows in reg p2k2 ribbing, then repeat until your hat is about 8 inches deep. For men with larger skulls make the hat 9 inches deep. This will give you a hat that will cover your ears or your bulky hair or maybe both.  Decreases: do the decreases the same as in the geometric version of the hat and tie off, weaving in ends. Add a tassel or pompom if you like. For colder climates be sure to make the hat deep enough to cover the ears, or add ear flaps.  Ear flapsIf you can, test the hat on the  person who will be wearing it for fit. If you think you need ear flaps, estimate how long they should be, and use stitch markers to position mark where to begin and end them on the edge of the hat.  Remove hat from the wearer before knitting on the ear flaps.  Pick up and knit 10 stitches along the edge – or however many you think you need to fit the intended hat owner. Knit and purl the knits and purls respectively until 3 inches long. Begin decreases with k2tog at the start and end of each row. When down to on stitch on needle, pull yarn through and use a crochet hook to chain a tie if you want one. Make it about a foot long, and add a tassel to the end.
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