I have lots of straight knitting needles, and a few bent ones. Keeping track of the mates for them was hard for a while, as I didn’t have a needle organizer. I was going to make one, but I never bothered enough to find a good pattern. Being a cheap yankee and a compulsively creative sort I came up with these little gems. They keep needle sets together in pairs or sets of pairs. If I just want to take one pair with me, the individual keepers keep them together in my bag.

When you are using the needles you can leave the Keeper on one of the needles (for individual Keepers).

Use your imagination. I just made these up.

Crochet Heart Needle Keeper

I forgot where I got this heart pattern online but it’s a very good heart pattern.

Use size J crochet hook and worsted weight yarn.
Round 1: Chain 4. Make all of the next stitches in the first chain. 3 trc, 3 dc, chain 1, 1 trc, chain 1, 3 dc, 3 trc, chain 2 slip stitch.

Round 2: Chain 3, in first trc make sc and hdc, in next stitch 3 hdc, in next stitch 2 hdc, sc in next four stitches, chain 1 dc in trc, chain 1, sc in next four stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch, 3 hdc in next stitch, hdc and sc in next stitch, chain 3 and slip stitch in center.

Round 3: Chain 3, sc in top of chain 3 from previous row , 2 sc in next stitch, sc in next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch, then sc in each of the next stitches until point of heart, chain one for point, sc in next five stitches, then sc in next st, 2 sc in next stitch, sc in next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch, chain three and then slip stitch in center of heart. Pull the loop to the back and fasten off.

Mini Sweater Needle Keeper

I used two tone Fisherman’s wool and about a 4 mm hook. It looks like I did the sleeves in single crochet and the body in half double crochet to allow larger holes. Sorry, just make this one up as you go. I see 8 rows total including the sleeves and body. The body is about 8 or 9 stitches wide and the sleeves add another 5 stitches to each side.
Try this: Chain 11, turn and hdc in 2nd from hook, hdc 8 across, ch 2, turn and hdc 8 across. Repeat until you have 6 rows. Chain 7, turn and hdc in 2nd from hook, hdc across to end, then ch 7, turn and hdc in 2nd from hook, hdc across to end.

Little Brown Hat Needle Keeper

I did this one in brown Fisherman’s Wool by Lion Brand. Use a 4 millimeter hook and crochet in a very small ring. Chain stitch around in a spiral, increasing as you to go keep the disk flat and expanding, until you have about an inch wide disk. Then crochet even to make the sides of the hat for about three quarters of an inch, then start increases again to make the brim. Fasten off. You could make a slightly larger hat to hold more needles if you like.

Fuzzy Fun Fur Needle Keeper

Using one color Fun Fur and a contrasting or complementing color of another yarn of any thickness you like. Crochet a chain fifteen links long – or whatever you like. Turn and single crochet back. Tie off. Use a hair brush to gently bring out the trapped fibers of the Fun Fur Yarn.

Chunky Keeper for Large Needles 

Using Thick and Quick by Lion Brand and a P hook or so, chain a length, turn and slip stitch back. Tie off in a tassel.

Little Bi-color Wreath.

Use a 4 or 5 mm hook and two strands of yarn in different colors. Crochet a ring the size you like, then chain stitch around one more time. Fasten off and leave a little tassel.

Little Pants

I used denim color wool by Pattons and a 4 mm hook. Chain 13, turn and sc in second stitch from hook. Sc across to end, ch 2 and turn, sc in top of second sc from that end and sc across. You are now at the center of the waist band of the pants. Ch 2, turn and sc in next stitch, sc 4 times. Chain 9, turn and sc in second from hook, sc across. Ch 2 and turn, sc in second from hook, sc across to bottom of second leg. If you are lucky and I was right the legs should be the same length.

Little Red Cup Keeper

This was just a small disk crocheted dc with increases in each stitch round one, then work even on round two. forms a little cup around the needle knobs.

Multi-needle Needle Keeper

I used two strands of rainbow cotton yarn, having selected sections so that different colors overlapped each other. Using a K hook, this one is just a long enough single chain. Stop when it’s the length you want and tie both ends in a tassel-like knot.

Larger linked Keeper for Large Needles.

Using a large hook and two or three strands of different color yarn chain a length, turn and slip stitch your way back across. Tie in a tassel.

Understanding Eastern Knitting and Western Knitting Styles and Knitting Fast

In this article I will explain the difference between the Eastern and Western styles of knitting and how not to get confused. There will be some instruction in how to do them, yet while this is not so much a knitting lesson, what you learn here may be of great use to the beginner or transitioner.

Eastern European knitting style has stirred a lot of interest as an alternative to English and Continental styles lately. There is also a blended style called Combined or Combination knitting, which frankly confuses me so far. I will get to that later.

Western knitting styles are distinguished from Eastern by the turn of the loops on the needles. This is an important distinction and will help you understand what you are doing as you knit and purl. Western styles include English, Continental, Portuguese and a few others. Eastern European has a few varieties also, and there are “twisted” and “untwisted” methods. I like the Eastern because you don’t have to keep moving the yarn from back to front and front to back when you are knitting, but there are a few conversions you need to make to use western stitches and patterns. I can’t go into that here or now as I’m not fully edumakated on those matters, but maybe later.

How to tell them apart:
Go grab some knitting still on the needles. Imagine you are looking south. The left is your east, the right is your west. Now look at the loops on the left needle. If the leg of the loop on your side of the needle is closer to the left/East then it’s an Eastern loop. If it’s nearer the right/West and the tip of the left needle then it’s a Western loop.

How eastern and western loops are created:
When you insert the needle through a loop on the left needle (for right handers) you will be wrapping the yarn around the needle one way or the other. If your put your needle on the left/east side of the working yarn and bring the yarn across it, between you and the needle and to the left/east – wrapping counter clockwise – then you are going to create an eastern loop with that stitch.

Conversely, if you put your right needle to the right/west of the working yarn and bring the yarn across the right needle toward the west – wrapping counter-clockwise – you will create a western loop.

When I first started knitting I tried learning a form of Eastern European Untwisted knitting taught by a lys owner near me and got confused and had a mix of eastern and western loops that made everything a useless mess. I’ve been looking into Eastern again lately because Gail, my lys owner, uses that form and knits very fast and I want to knit faster, so I’m going to stop by there soon and get a refresher course.

My confusion with “combined” knitting is that it seems to have you freely converting your western loops to eastern loops so that when you turn the work it seems you will have to knit a different style or compensate for all the loops that are facing different ways. I watched a youtube video of “Russian” knitting that did just this. It just doesn’t make sense to me to do that. I will look into it more later and maybe write about it, but for now my recommendation is to learn a non-combined method if you are looking for a new style or want to be more efficient.

By the way, combined/combination knitting is not Eastern, as some people have stated, but a mix.

In combined knitting, just as in western styles, purls knits have you move the working yarn to your side of the left needle, and for knit stitches it’s on the far side of the needle. Eastern European knitting appears to have the working yarn always on the far side of the needles, and Portuguese has it always on the near side with the yarn passing around your neck or through a pin or pendant at your chest. These latter two options sound a bit more efficient but there are those who are very practiced and efficient at Continental as well and can move that yarn fast. Sorry, but English knitting is just too much movement for me, having to let go of the right needle to throw the yarn and all that.

As you will read in this blog, I’m fond of Portuguese style – made popular by Andrea Wong – and it’s fully western, easy to learn and moderately fast, but I want to go faster. I saw a youtube video of Eunny demostrating entrelac and she knits so fast: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcLxMt9GehM&list=FL1BpX65EaVyBJXqac2Kxh-Q&feature=mh_lolz . By the way, her stitches are oddly uneven in that video but I think that is due to how she is working the entrelac squares. One thing that makes her fast is how she holds and manages the yarn in her left hand, which I have yet to master. This part of knitting – controlling the working yarn – is critical for successful and fast work. I tried to each myself knitting from books and almost gave up until I discovered I could hold the yarn the way I do for crochet, and then I also discovered Portuguese style.

I am making for a relative – to match the scarf I made for xmas last year – has faux 1+1 cables.

Faux cables like in this hat are very easy, don’t require a cable needle or finger contortions, and best of all they don’t tighten your knitting significantly like real cables, so they are great for hats and socks where fit is important and you want a bit of fancy stitching. Real cables would make your hat a lot smaller due to the pulling it you get with real cable stitches.

Materials and tools:
Yarn: less than one skein Lion Brand Woolease Thick and Quick (106 yd/97 m), or equivalent size 6 yarn.
10.5 circular needles, 24 -36 inch length or whatever works for you.
Stitch markers for the columns where you want your cables IF you are not going to do them in all right side knit columns, and one of a different color to mark the start of a row.

I did this one smaller (48) to test the smaller size. It still fits my large, 7 and 7/8 size head a bit tight, and the wales are opened up fully. I needed the 56.

Cast on 48 for a child (52, 56 for larger) and join to knit in the round without twisting the cast-on. I used long tail cast-on.
Knit p2k2 ribbing for 1.5 to two inches. I did the one in the picture for 3 inches, but realized it’s not necessary, so you can do less and it looks better. And I find p2k2 ribbing pulls in better than p1k1 ribbing.

For the next 6-7.5 inches knit in line with the p2k2 rib BUT instead of the k2 part knit a faux cable: so that’s *p2, K2tog, leave the two stitches on the left needle and knit again into the one nearest the tip of the needle, then slide the two loops off the left needle.* – Repeat around until done with that row..

Work one row with faux cables in all the knit columns on the right side, then work three rows in reg p2k2 ribbing, then repeat until your hat is about 8 inches deep. For men with larger skulls make the hat 9 inches deep. This will give you a hat that will cover your ears or your bulky hair or maybe both.

Decreases: I designed this decrease so the two columns of knit stitches on the outside bend with the decrease rather than being cut off.

Move beginning marker so it is between two nearest knit stitches on the outer/right side of the hat. Using markers of a different color, insert one every 8 stitches. These should likewise be between two knit stitches on the outside of the hat.
Follow current pattern – knit knits and purl purls – until you get to the last two loops before a marker and for those two, knit two together.

Continue until you have reduced to about 6 or 7 loops on the needles – 6 for the smaller hat. It doesn’t really matter at that size.

Remove markers.

Break yarn with about 1.5 ft tail, thread yarn through loops using a crochet hook, remove from circular needle, draw tight to close the hole, tie firmly and weave in ends.

Add a tassel or pompom if you like. For colder climates be sure to make the hat deep enough to cover the ears, or add ear flaps.

Ear Flaps?
If you can, test the hat on the person who will be wearing it for fit. If you think you need ear flaps, estimate how long they should be, and use stitch markers to position mark where to begin and end them on the edge of the hat.

Remove hat from the wearer before knitting on the ear flaps.

Pick up and knit 10 stitches along the edge – or however many you think you need to fit the intended hat owner. Knit and purl the knits and purls respectively until 3 inches long. Begin decreases with k2tog at the start and end of each row. When down to on stitch on needle, pull yarn through and use a crochet hook to chain a tie if you want one. Make it about a foot long, and add a tassel to the end.

Another variant of this hat I am making for a relative – to match the scarf I made for xmas last year – has faux 1+1 cables.  Faux cables like in this hat are very easy, don’t require a cable needle or finger contortions, and best of all they don’t tighten your knitting significantly like real cables, so the are great for hats and socks where fit is important and you want a bit of fancy stitching. Real cables would make your hat a lot smaller due to the pulling it you get with real cable stitches.  I did this one smaller to test the smaller size. It still fits my large head comfortably, but the wales are opened up fully. It’s not tight on my head.  Cast on 48 (56) and join to knit in the round without twisting the cast-on. Knit p2k2 ribbing for two inches. I find p2k2 ribbing pulls in better than p1k1 ribbing.  For the next 6-7 inches knit in line with the p2k2 rib BUT instead of the k2 part knit a faux cable: K2tog, leave the two stitches on the left needle and knit again into the one nearest the tip of the needle, then slide the two loops off the left needle.  Work one row with faux cables in all the knit columns, then work three rows in reg p2k2 ribbing, then repeat until your hat is about 8 inches deep. For men with larger skulls make the hat 9 inches deep. This will give you a hat that will cover your ears or your bulky hair or maybe both.  Decreases: do the decreases the same as in the geometric version of the hat and tie off, weaving in ends. Add a tassel or pompom if you like. For colder climates be sure to make the hat deep enough to cover the ears, or add ear flaps.  Ear flapsIf you can, test the hat on the  person who will be wearing it for fit. If you think you need ear flaps, estimate how long they should be, and use stitch markers to position mark where to begin and end them on the edge of the hat.  Remove hat from the wearer before knitting on the ear flaps.  Pick up and knit 10 stitches along the edge – or however many you think you need to fit the intended hat owner. Knit and purl the knits and purls respectively until 3 inches long. Begin decreases with k2tog at the start and end of each row. When down to on stitch on needle, pull yarn through and use a crochet hook to chain a tie if you want one. Make it about a foot long, and add a tassel to the end.
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This is easy and relatively fast to knit and looks good on both sides, so it’s basically reversible. When I finished the scarf (at work) a couple of people wanted one, including women, so it’s not just for men. I designed it for a male friend of mine and he clearly liked it. The pattern deters curling edges, and the extra thick yarn and simple pattern makes it fast to knit. I used Lion Brand Woolease Thick and Quick in Charcoal color.

The pattern is a geometric grid that has narrow parts alternating with wider parts, both vertically and horizontally. I if you know something about knitting you can use this as a basis for other designs with this thickness yarn. I am using it to do some cabled hats for gifts to match scarves I made last year. Be aware that cables pull in more side to side and make a piece a little smaller.

This hat I designed to go with the scarf fits me “not tight” and I have a large head and almost covers my ears. If you need a hat smaller, take out 8 stitches around leaving 48 loops for a smaller hat, and remove 5-8 rows for a shorter hat.

For a variation of this hat with faux cables see the picture and link below. It looks nice also.

Materials and tools:
Scarf: 10.5 straight needles.
Yarn: two skeins Lion Brand Woolease Thick and Quick (106 yd/97 m), or equivalent size 6 yarn.
Hat: 10.5 circular needles, 24 -36 inch length or whatever works for you.
Yarn: Less than one skein of the above selected yarn.
7 or 8 stitch markers.

You could use just two skeins and do the hat first, then use the remaining yarn to make the scarf as a shorter muffler if you like.

HAT:
Cast on 56 (48 for a smaller hat) on to circular 10.5 needles. I used long tail cast-on.

Join to knit in the round without twisting.

Place a marker.

P2, K2 for 8-10 rows.
K2, P2 for 8-10 rows.
P2, k2 for 8-10 rows.

Decreases: I designed this decrease so the two columns of knit stitches on the outside bend with the decrease rather than being cut off.

Move beginning marker so it is between two nearest knit stitches on the outer/right side of the hat. Using markers of a different color, insert one every 8 stitches. These should likewise be between two knit stitches on the outside of the hat.
Follow current pattern – knit knits and purl purls – until you get to the last two loops before a marker and for those two, knit two together.

Continue until you have reduced to about 6 or 7 loops on the needles – 6 for the smaller hat. It doesn’t really matter at that size.

Remove markers.

Break yarn with about 1.5 ft tail, thread yarn through loops using a crochet hook, remove from circular needle, draw tight to close the hole, tie firmly and weave in ends.

I have another version of this hat with easy faux cables instead that looks great.

SCARF
Cast on 20 using super bulky yarn on 10.5 needles.

BEGINNING OF SCARF

*P2k2 for two rows.
K2p2 for two rows.*
Repeat * to * once for a total of 4 rows.

BODY OF SCARF:

Always purl the first and last stitch of each row to reduce curling of the edge. This also give is a nice texture on the edge.

*P1, k7, p4, k7, p1: – repeat for 9 rows.
P1, p7, k4, p7, p1 – repeat for 5 rows.*
Repeat *to * to desired length.

End scarf with:

P1, k7, p4, k7, p1: – repeat for 9 rows.

Then do END OF SCARF again:
*P2k2 for two rows.
K2p2 for two rows.*

Weave in ends.

For the last month or two I have been getting lots of spam subscriptions to the posts on this web site. In the course of a day I get 20 or more junk registrations for updates, which I have to manually delete.

If you would like to register for normal updates by email please use the Contact Eric page and include the user name, email and password you would like to use and I will register you myself.

OR

I suggest you use RSS and get updates via a newsreader. It’s very easy to use.  On the right side of this page at the edge of the window you see a floating tab with an orange icon. Click that and you will be led to subscribe to updates to the blog. You can collect the updates in your gmail account or use newsreader applications built into your browser, or other programs or web sites that support this.

If anyone has an idea how to stop these spam registrations I’m all ears.  I have tried captcha, but judging by the time stamp on the registrations they are being done manually, by a human, every few minutes.

I know you haven’t seen anything new here in a while. I’ve been working on other things that need more attention. I have just moved this site to a new host that is much faster. I was on Godaddy but their servers are very slow compared to Hostgator, and they were not able to help make them faster, so, end of story, end of Godaddy for me. This site is so much faster now, especially the back end where I work mostly. I hope you like it.

I do have a few things to post about here for knitting, but not feeling too motivated. If you have anything you want to hear from me about, let me know. I respond well to such interest. Have a great day. – Eric

I found this online tool for planning a knitted piece. I hope it helps you. Uses:

1. If I want to decrease 14 stitches over 6 inches – how many rows should I work between decreases?
2. My pattern needs me to increase 13 stitches evenly over a row – how often do I increase?
3. I want to knit something 13 inches wide – how many stitches do I cast on?
4. I want to knit a piece 22.5 inches long – how many rows do I work?

http://quirm.net/blog-extra/how-many/

Hello, I came across this blog from a Ravelry thread and now I’ve got it bookmarked!

I learned to cable a few months ago for a project that only involved very small cables, but many of them. I quickly decided I’d go mad if I had to use a cable needle every five stitches, so I looked up how to cable without a needle. Like you probably were, I was quickly terrified at the thought of dropping stitches, so I figured out my own way which is and expansion of some things I’ve read elsewhere.

By slipping various groups of stitches back and forth, you can transpose the two sets of stitches before you ever knit them, and you never need to take a stitch completely off the needle. Say you want to do a left twist in a four-stitch-wide cable. You slip two stitches together to the right needle (always knitwise), slip two more stitches together, then slip all four stitches back. If you want a right twist, slip all four first and then do the pairs. Obviously this becomes more awkward for wider cables, but it’s far preferable to any of the alternatives, for me.

Do you have some worsted weight or other yarn you aren’t crazy about, or don’t want to use for projects at that yarn weight? You can convert it to a bulky or super bulky yarn with a bit of elbow grease. Combine colors along the full length or create colorways as you go along, or just make one color, and the yarn will have new characteristics for unique projects.

While fiddling around with yarn I needed some matching cord for a knitted/fulled/felted sporran I was making for my kilt so I took some of the same fishermans yarn by Lion Brand and crocheted up about five feet of chain in this yarn, then went to work felting it in a sink full of hot soapy water, just rubbing it all in a ball and every half minute or so pulling it all apart so the strand didn’t felt onto itself. After about five minutes the squishiness of the yarn mass pretty much disappeared, indicating the felting/fulling had pretty much completed.

So I rinsed it all out in warm water, then quenched it in cold water and wrung it out. After drying it was perfect for my needs and matched the felted-fulled sporran perfectly.

Before you do a big batch I recommend you do a few yards worth of chain first to see if you like the resulting felted yarn and then knit a swatch to see how the fabric turns out.

You could do this with much longer lengths of yarn and I bet putting it in the washer would work for felting but I haven’t tried that. Use a small load setting and put in several pairs of jeans to fill up the tub. I would also put the yarn chain in a mesh bag so it has more contact with itself. You will want to check it every few minutes.

Of course you may get a big tangle, so one thing I know works is you can do it by hand in sections. Gather up a good handful of the crocheted chain and work it in the sink or tub – maybe this would be a good bath time project? – and massage the yarn into felted/fulled goodness. Stop whenever you think it is felted enough. You could even just felt it part way so the fibers are about half matted and you can still see the chains, but everything is firmly unified for knitting purposes.

Like I said, as you are crocheting the chain you can combine colors for a striping effect, especially if you are using thinner yarn, where you can crochet two strands at once.

Let me know if this lights up your life. I’d like to hear what results you get. I haven’t made the time to do a bigger project with this, so can’t show you anything at this point.