Archive for May 2010

Glengarry Hat Test Model

This is my latest test knit of the Glengarry hat I'm working on for when I go back east for the Glasgow Lands Scottish Festival. I've made several modifications to the original pattern, included a ventilated top for comfort in hot weather. Several good pictures included. Take a look, let me know what you think. Read the rest of this entry »

Could This Be a New Seaming/Bind-off Technique?

How I avoided the Kitchener stitch while finishing this Glengarry hat. I don't know if this is a new way of seaming and binding off at the same time, but it worked really well here. Take a look. There are some pics of how to and another article coming about the hat itself. Read the rest of this entry »

Updated ~ Better Short Row Ideas: My “Spoon Stitch” Short Row Turn

This post was updated March 23, 2012 with better instructions – I hope. Let me know if you have questions.

I’m working on a Glengarry hat from the book Folk Hats by Vicki Square. I want it to wear with my kilt on occasions, and I find it an interesting learning experience. It’s also my first major encounter with short rows as they are used to shape the curved top of the sides of the hat.

This is a fancy, commercially made Glengarry hat.

This is a fancy, commercially made Glengarry hat.

Short rows are stopping short in a row and turning the work to knit back in the other direction. To do this you have to anchor the working yarn or you will get a hole where you stopped. Most books teach the wrap-and-turn method, which I tried and find seriously lacking. What you do is slip the next stitch, wrap the yarn around it and slip it back, then turn and knit. Problem is that it usually pulls the loop it’s wrapped around and makes a hole anyway. And even if you work the wrapped yarn with the loop it’s wrapped around (on your way back across) it is visible as a diagonal strand of yarn. I don’t know why this method is in books.

So I got to thinking and reasoned that if I just knit or purl into the loop below the next loop after my stopping point, then slip that loop up onto the left needle so they are nested like spoons then you have a nice secure anchor. The doubled loop is not so visible, especially on a knit side, and you don’t get a hole. Once you turn the work pause to make sure the loop you just made isn’t loose. Snug it up normally, then start knitting in the other direction.

Improved instructions:

Where you want to turn, stop. Look at the next stitch on the left needle – lets call it stitch A1. You want to make a duplicate of that stitch so it is “spooning” with that stitch. If it’s a knit on your side you have to pull a loop through the loop below it – knit it. . This is stitch A2. Then with A2 still on the right needle, slip A1 from the left to the right as if to knit. You now have A1 and A2 on the right. Take your left needle and slip them both back to the left needle at the same time as if to purl. This will make a turn without a hole and without any twisted stitch.
If the next stitch (A1) is a purl put the yarn on your side of the work and purl through the loop below it, creating A2. PAUSE. You still have A1 on the left and now A2 on the right. Take your left needle and slip A2 as if to knit (from its right side) onto the left needle, turn the work and continue knitting. This also makes a turn with no hole and no twisted stitch. Plus you don’t have an unsightly wrap you have to deal with later.

Again, what you do is, if the next stitch after your stopping point is a purl, insert your right needle from the back through the loop below that next stitch, wrap your yarn and push the loop through to the other side. Lift that new loop and put it on the tip of the left needle, turn your work, snug it and start working in the other direction.

If your next stitch shows as a knit on your side, insert your right needle through the loop below it from the front – your side – and wrap the yarn, pull a loop through. Now it’s a bit different: insert your right needle knit-wise into the last loop on the left needle (the one above the one you just pulled a loop through) and slip it off the left needle. Then back up and slide both of these loops back onto the left needle in the same orientation – don’t turn them – but with the new loop behind (to the left) of the loop you just slipped off the left needle. You’re just sneaking the new loop in between the last and second to last loops on the left needle. Both loops are now on the left needle, with your last loop nearest the tip of the needle and the new loop behind it. Turn the work, snug the new loop and start knitting in the other direction.

This is very easy and quick. I did a search after I thought of this and found that there are several methods of turning short rows. I found a slight variation on my method on http://techknitting.blogspot.com/search?q=Short+rows%3A+method.
There is a good method called yarnover shortrows explained nicely at http://www.cocoknits.com/info/tutorials/shortrows.html but you have to recognize your yarnover on the way back and work it together with the stitch beyond it to close the gap. With my method the two loops are spooning each other and you can’t miss it. Japanese short rows are supposed to be good but I haven’t tried them.

Here are a bunch of links. Enjoy!

http://sameknit.blogspot.com/2007/04/yarn-over-short-rows.html

http://www.cocoknits.com/info/tutorials/shortrows.html

http://nonaknits.typepad.com/nonaknits/2005/04/japanese_short_.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zu5YAKsAEpY

http://www.woolywonder.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6828&page=2&highlight=unwrapped+technique

http://www.cosmicpluto.com/blog/as-promised-a-short-row-heel-tutorial/

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Knitting Backwards Without Twisting Stitches

A subscriber to this blog, a gentleman from Oregon, asked me how not to twist stitches when knitting backwards and forwards, meaning without turning the work. Without careful examination it’s easy to mess up. This article will give you an exact understanding of loops and what they do when you do things to them.

This will also help you understand what it means in any instructions when you are told to “knit into the back of the loop,” which is a rather hazy instruction if you ask me.

While knitting backwards is certainly a challenge to one’s skills I think Read the rest of this entry »

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Worsted Weight Socks That Don’t Hurt

I’ve worn my share of heavy socks and found that its like walking on beads or gravel. If you are tender footed like me and need heavy socks for cold weather you know they are a bit uncomfortable, especially when you first start walking around in them. It feels like something is gnawing at your soles. Even after you get used to it the irritation is still Read the rest of this entry »

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How to Rev Up Your Knitting Again

Sometimes when you’ve been knitting a lot you get to a point were you just don’t want to do it, but you’ve got three or six or nine projects sitting around and all that time and money invested, and you know you enjoy knitting. So why can’t you knit now and what can you do about it?

Well, sometimes we just need a break. You need something different for a while. Really, your brain and psyche and spirit do need variety. Yes, some people can knit until the cows come home, but remember everyone is different. You know about how people with different Read the rest of this entry »

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Is This Wool? How to Test Before You Knit

Yes,  I own some Wool-ease, which is mostly acrylic. I don’t really like it. I bought it when I was new to knitting. It will be okay for some projects, but I really prefer natural fiber, and my real preference is naturally dyed or naturally colored fiber.

So I have some yarn that I balled with my ball winder and now I’ve forgotten if it is all wool or not. I found on the web you can test a scrap by putting some of the yarn in a cup with some undiluted bleach overnight and if it is all wool there will be pretty much nothing solid left.

BUT – brain on – a much faster test is to take a two feet of it if its worsted, or an equivalent amount in other weights, and try to felt it by rubbing it into a ball in a bath of hot, soapy water. If it’s a feltable fiber like wool you will know within minutes, and without chemicals, fire hazards or nasty smells. The less wool in it the less it will felt. Do a test of something you know is wool for comparison if you are not sure it’s felting as well as it should.

There is a burn test if you don’t mind your home smelling line burnt hair or plastic. Visit this link to read about it. What, no takers?

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